Gluten Free in Greece Part 3: Santorini

When you look at pictures of Greece, I’m willing to bet that 90% of those pictures were taken in Santorini.  The views from this volcanic island are exquisite, dramatic and simply breathtaking.

Oia, Santorini

Built on a volcano that erupted over 3,600 years ago, the island of Santorini is rumored by some to be the lost Atlantis.  The eruption changed the landscape of the Caldera and left the island of Santorini with a dramatically high elevation on one side and a sea-level elevation on the other. Oia, one of the most recognizable cities in Greece, is perfectly balanced at the top of the island at 984 feet above sea level (nearly equivalent to a 100 story building). The other half of the island slants down to the sea and is actually on a beach.  Santorini’s beaches offer a variety of colors as the dried lava varies from black to red to white.

We stayed in Perissa and ventured into Fira and Oia during our 2 day-stay.  We enjoyed walking around the markets in Fira, but after about 2 hours we felt we had seen it all. From Fira we took a bus into Oia, which was an experience in itself.  The windy roads as you climb the volcano were definitely not for the faint of heart, or the claustrophobic.

The views from Oia were absolutely spellbinding and something my mind would never have been able to conjure by itself.  The white architecture built into the side of the volcano contrasts vividly to the deep azure blue of the Sea.  It’s absolutely breathtaking.  We spent the rest of the day wandering around Oia as we were determined to stay for the famous sunset.  One travel tip I’d recommend though is to bring a jacket.  The island cools off quite a bit once the sun sets and we found ourselves huddled together to try to keep warm at one point (keep in mind, we travelled in June).

Alright alright, you clicked on this blog to get a feel for the gluten free Santorini cuisine, so here we go:

The group at Noma

 Noma Kuzina Mediterra: Our hotel was situated on a quaint little street facing the black beach and offered restaurants, shops and more right outside our door.   We  originally sat down at restaurant that seemed much more like a tourist restaurant than an authentic Greek restaurant and after viewing their picture-only menu decided to continue our search.  Down just a few feet was Noma, our hidden gem.  The restaurant was an indoor/outdoor type set up with a bit of a swanky feel to it but offered simple foods at simple prices.  As soon as we sat down we were greeted with a shot of a local spirit, which tasted of honey and organically sparked a conversation with the restaurant owner. Coincidentally, the owner had lived in the USA for a few years growing up and to my delight was also was very educated on Celiac Disease.  He even discussed his idea of creating and distributing a gluten free pizza crust to the restaurants he oversaw in the city (yes please!).  After a long discussion on how successful I think it would be, it was time to order.  I ordered a decadent potato casserole that was out of this world.  I wish I could recreate it somehow because the

Amazing potato casserole at Noma

flavors were simple yet divine.  It was oozing with cheese, bacon, chives and some type of tangy mix of spices, garlic and sour cream that threw it over the top.  The dish probably could have served 2, but I ate the whole thing accompanied by a refreshing Caprese salad.  I dreamt of this casserole the rest of our time in Santorini and highly recommend the restaurant for that reason only.  Before heading that way, you may want to send the restaurant a facebook message and see if they have started offering gluten free pizza crust!

Another view at Pelekanos

Oia is known to have some of the best sunsets in the world.  We had arrived in the city around noon and after exploring, shopping and picture taking, it was time to wait out the remaining  afternoon.  We ate light snacks, drank wine and just relaxed at quite a few restaurants within the town, but since everything was so simple I didn’t write down the restaurant names (oops!).   As with most small restaurants, I stuck to the Greek Salad just to be safe.

Shrimp at Pelekanos

 Pelekano’s: The time had finally come for the sun to set and cast it’s painting across the Aegean Sea.  We luckily got to the restaurant just in time to get a table at the corner of the glass-encased dining room that extended even further above the city of Oia than expected.  The restaurant played a dramatic opera concerto while the sun made it’s descent and then quickly changed to upbeat music once the event had passed.  The view from the dining room was absolutely stunning but the food for gluten free travelers was a bit bland. I ate shrimp, dusted with pink peppercorns accompanied with some garlic butter along with a side of roasted potatoes (a girl’s got to have some type of carb after a long day of walking!).  Because Oia is more of a tourist stop, the restaurants we found weren’t anything out of the ordinary.  I’d recommend getting a cocktail and light dinner while watching the sun set from the balcony but recommend dining elsewhere if a hearty gluten-free meal is what you’re looking for. 

Sunset at Pelekanos

Gluten Free in Greece Part 1: Athens

As I mentioned a few blog posts back, a few girlfriends and I spontaneously decided to take a trip to Greece in May.  It was the first time I had been out of the country since being diagnosed with Celiac Disease in 2008 and have plenty to share about the experience.

Greeks are extremely nice people.  You’d be hard pressed to find anyone who can’t at least speak basic English and everyone I encountered seemed very willing to help me figure out what I could eat.  I’ve heard that Italy is very aware of Celiac Disease and was hoping Greece would be the same; but sadly, it wasn’t.  The one great thing about Greece is that most of their food is fresh and their only marinades are olive oil, lemon and oregano. I used my Triumph Dining cards every time I ate out and I highly recommend them to anyone preparing to travel.

Breakfast was my lifeline while in Greece.  All of our hotels had hearty breakfasts that included a variety of cold cuts, cheeses, fruit, hard boiled eggs, bacon, sausage and greek yogurt with all the fixings.  (The greek yogurt is out of this world!)  One word of caution though: in Athens I found out that our hotel’s salami was beer salami.  I’m not sure if that’s a hotel specialty or if it’s a tradition throughout Greece, but stay away just in case.

Okay, so where did I eat while in Athens?

The view from Xenios Zeus 

Xenios Zeus: This Rick Steve’s suggestion was located at the very top of Restaurant Hill and was worth every step to get there.  The view of Athens at night from our table was absolutely stunning and the restaurant served authentic Greek platters at a great price.  The chef altered my plate due to my allergy and made me stuffed vine leaves, a fava bean salad and a stuffed onion accompanied by tzakiki, hummus and a mustard sauce. For desert, instead of the baklava he served my friends, he prepared a sweetened greek yogurt with a cherry compote. The food was absolutely spectacular and I devoured the entire plate.  Unfortunately, there must have been something in one of those dishes because I was not a happy camper soon after.  I still recommend this restaurant based on their view and the authenticity of the food, but recommend asking the chef more questions or sticking to the greek salad.

Enjoying a glass of wine at the Athens Gate Hotel restaurant

Athens Gate Hotel:  This hotel was home to us during our 3 days in Athens and was perfectly positioned near all the major attractions. The chef at the hotel’s restaurant was very helpful and made me a special salad using a special skillet, cutting board and knife to cut the chicken.  They were extremely helpful with my allergy and also offered a variety of risottos, fresh fish dishes and salads that seemed gluten-free.  Their breakfast was also very hearty and an easy bet for me, just don’t eat the salami!

Potatoes with olive oil, cheese & oregano at Filistron

Filistron's Deck during a rain shower

Filistro: The signs outside the restaurant read ‘Filistron’ and is divided into a ground-floor level and a detached terrace level. The entrance to this roof-top deck is hidden around the street corner.  The view of Athens as the sun sets is amazing, and is actually another one of Rick Steve’s suggestions. When we arrived we were greeted by a shot of tequila (not traditional but hey, we didn’t complain!), olives, hummus and bread (not gluten free unfortunately).  The waiter was well versed in gluten and told me he could suggest a variety of main dishes.  I stuck to a lighter dish and ordered the grilled potato slices with grated cheese, olive oil and oregano.  It was delicious and really hit the spot.  If you’re looking for an authentic Greek restaurant with a knowledgeable staff, this one is a great option!

Gluten Free in Athens' International Airport (ATH)

During our trip we had 2 departing flights and 2 incoming flights into this airport unfortunately, there weren’t many food options. The airport was filled with duty-free shopping and small coffee/sandwich/snack shops positioned near the departure gates, but no real restaurants.  My advice is to either eat before you get to the airport or bring some snacks with you in your carry on bag.  The only 2 options I found were:

Juice Bar-While I’m not quite sure what the name is, the juice bar is located just inside the airport door near the Aitalia check-in counters.  The down side to this option is that you’ll need to finish the drink before heading through security.

Food Village-I never found this ‘village’ while in the airport but the website suggests they offer traditional Greek food and a variety of salads that may be gluten free.

For a full list of Athens International Airport restaurants, click here. (www.aia.gr/traveler/shoping-centre/restaurants-and-cafes/).

Preparing to Travel out of the Country with Celiac Disease

In May a few friends and I decided to take a spontaneous vacation.  At first we toyed with the idea of going to Mexico and taking a beach vacation but realized if we were willing to take a week off work we may as well go somewhere amazing.  After only 3 days of discussion we booked a trip to...GREECE!  Pretty crazy, we know.

            This was my first out-of-country trip since being diagnosed with Celiac Disease in 2008 and let me be honest, it wasn’t easy.  While you’d be hard pressed to find anyone in Greece who doesn’t at least know basic English, I found myself suffering from accidental “glutening” on more than one occasion (but that’s another blog post).

            If you plan to go out of the country anytime soon I have a few suggestions on how to make the trip a bit easier.  First off, the dining cards made from Triumph Dining was an absolute life saver!   The pack gives you a card for each type of food, explains your allergy in English and the local language, gives examples of local dishes that may contain gluten and local ingredients that may be okay.  I presented these cards to every restaurant I visited and it made the eating out process a bit less stressful.  I highly recommend getting a pack (or 2) for any vacation you take.  Second of all, make sure to bring plenty of snacks.  For our 8-day trip I packed a box of Glutino gluten free poptarts, gluten free crackers and about 10 nut/breakfast bars.  Everything was gone by day 7 and I wish I had packed a tad more.  In Detroit I found a product line called GoPicnic that provides small gluten-free packaged meals.  If I had known about these pre-trip, I would have taken about 5 with me.  They come in a variety of meals and are only about $4 a pop.

KLM Gluten Free Dinner

            When packing these snacks, make sure to bring a few in your carry on bag.  As I’ll cover in my next few blogs, airports are not the most accommodating when it comes to food allergies.  The good news however, is that the airlines are! Make sure to note your food allergy when booking your flight because all major airlines offer gluten-free meals.  On my KLM flight going to Amsterdam I was served a salad, fruit cup, gluten free bread roll and an entrée of grilled chicken with rice and steamed broccoli for dinner.  Breakfast was yogurt, fruit, a gluten free lemon tart and a veggie sandwich (a bit odd for breakfast, but it was food!)  The airline almost always serves special meals first, so I felt more confident there was no room for confusion.

            Now let’s talk about accommodations while over seas. When preparing to go out of the country, it may be worth it to try to rent an apartment instead of getting a hotel room.  This option may end up being cheaper and the best part is that you’d have access to a kitchen.  If you do choose to opt for a hotel, call ahead and to see if your room comes with a mini-fridge or kitchenette and if their restaurant can accommodate gluten free diets.  To my surprise, our hotel in Santorini actually included a stovetop! I wish I had called ahead because I would have loved to make some gluten free pasta.

            Finally, while we hate to think about it, let’s face it:  traveling out of the country can be difficult with Celiac Disease and you may end up accidentally eating gluten.  Nobody wants that, but hey it happens.  Prepare ahead of time by packing back-up medicines like Pepto, probiotics and Licorice tablets.  There’s also a great natural supplement called GlutenEase that I bring with me every time I eat out, even in the United States.  The supplement is supposed to help offset symptoms if you were to accidentally ingest gluten and is 100% natural.  All of these products can be found at your local grocery store or health store.

            Happy planning! :)