Gluten Free in Greece Part 3: Santorini

When you look at pictures of Greece, I’m willing to bet that 90% of those pictures were taken in Santorini.  The views from this volcanic island are exquisite, dramatic and simply breathtaking.

Oia, Santorini

Built on a volcano that erupted over 3,600 years ago, the island of Santorini is rumored by some to be the lost Atlantis.  The eruption changed the landscape of the Caldera and left the island of Santorini with a dramatically high elevation on one side and a sea-level elevation on the other. Oia, one of the most recognizable cities in Greece, is perfectly balanced at the top of the island at 984 feet above sea level (nearly equivalent to a 100 story building). The other half of the island slants down to the sea and is actually on a beach.  Santorini’s beaches offer a variety of colors as the dried lava varies from black to red to white.

We stayed in Perissa and ventured into Fira and Oia during our 2 day-stay.  We enjoyed walking around the markets in Fira, but after about 2 hours we felt we had seen it all. From Fira we took a bus into Oia, which was an experience in itself.  The windy roads as you climb the volcano were definitely not for the faint of heart, or the claustrophobic.

The views from Oia were absolutely spellbinding and something my mind would never have been able to conjure by itself.  The white architecture built into the side of the volcano contrasts vividly to the deep azure blue of the Sea.  It’s absolutely breathtaking.  We spent the rest of the day wandering around Oia as we were determined to stay for the famous sunset.  One travel tip I’d recommend though is to bring a jacket.  The island cools off quite a bit once the sun sets and we found ourselves huddled together to try to keep warm at one point (keep in mind, we travelled in June).

Alright alright, you clicked on this blog to get a feel for the gluten free Santorini cuisine, so here we go:

The group at Noma

 Noma Kuzina Mediterra: Our hotel was situated on a quaint little street facing the black beach and offered restaurants, shops and more right outside our door.   We  originally sat down at restaurant that seemed much more like a tourist restaurant than an authentic Greek restaurant and after viewing their picture-only menu decided to continue our search.  Down just a few feet was Noma, our hidden gem.  The restaurant was an indoor/outdoor type set up with a bit of a swanky feel to it but offered simple foods at simple prices.  As soon as we sat down we were greeted with a shot of a local spirit, which tasted of honey and organically sparked a conversation with the restaurant owner. Coincidentally, the owner had lived in the USA for a few years growing up and to my delight was also was very educated on Celiac Disease.  He even discussed his idea of creating and distributing a gluten free pizza crust to the restaurants he oversaw in the city (yes please!).  After a long discussion on how successful I think it would be, it was time to order.  I ordered a decadent potato casserole that was out of this world.  I wish I could recreate it somehow because the

Amazing potato casserole at Noma

flavors were simple yet divine.  It was oozing with cheese, bacon, chives and some type of tangy mix of spices, garlic and sour cream that threw it over the top.  The dish probably could have served 2, but I ate the whole thing accompanied by a refreshing Caprese salad.  I dreamt of this casserole the rest of our time in Santorini and highly recommend the restaurant for that reason only.  Before heading that way, you may want to send the restaurant a facebook message and see if they have started offering gluten free pizza crust!

Another view at Pelekanos

Oia is known to have some of the best sunsets in the world.  We had arrived in the city around noon and after exploring, shopping and picture taking, it was time to wait out the remaining  afternoon.  We ate light snacks, drank wine and just relaxed at quite a few restaurants within the town, but since everything was so simple I didn’t write down the restaurant names (oops!).   As with most small restaurants, I stuck to the Greek Salad just to be safe.

Shrimp at Pelekanos

 Pelekano’s: The time had finally come for the sun to set and cast it’s painting across the Aegean Sea.  We luckily got to the restaurant just in time to get a table at the corner of the glass-encased dining room that extended even further above the city of Oia than expected.  The restaurant played a dramatic opera concerto while the sun made it’s descent and then quickly changed to upbeat music once the event had passed.  The view from the dining room was absolutely stunning but the food for gluten free travelers was a bit bland. I ate shrimp, dusted with pink peppercorns accompanied with some garlic butter along with a side of roasted potatoes (a girl’s got to have some type of carb after a long day of walking!).  Because Oia is more of a tourist stop, the restaurants we found weren’t anything out of the ordinary.  I’d recommend getting a cocktail and light dinner while watching the sun set from the balcony but recommend dining elsewhere if a hearty gluten-free meal is what you’re looking for. 

Sunset at Pelekanos

Gluten Free in Greece Part 2: Mykonos

In case you’re just now tuning in, I’ll give you a brief recap of what brought me to Greece.  I had been itching for a vacation and mentioned taking one to my friend Callie.  We started throwing around the idea of Mexico and then just decided if we were going to take a week off work, we may as well go somewhere cool.  The Greece idea was conceived, we were able to get 2 of our friends on board with us and the entire trip was booked within 1 week.  Seems like a great movie storyline, right?

Kivotos Hotel Welcome Room

We arrived in Athens and then flew over to the island of Mykonos, which was just stunning. While it’s known to be a party island frequented by celebrities and the most extreme party-goers, our experience was a much more relaxed one.

When we arrived at our hotel, we instantly were all taken aback by the extravagance of the place and felt like we had to have been dreaming.  I felt as if I were Carrie Bradshaw walking into the palace in Abu Dhabi.  I still am not sure how in the world we got such a great rate, but let me tell you, it was out of this world.  Upon arriving, we were placed in their windowed sitting room and given a glass of champagne.  What more could we ask for? An amazing view, glass of champagne and a sea breeze-we were in heaven.

During our 2 day stay on the island we lounged by the pool, tried out the nightlife at the Paradise Club Mykonos, took a trip into Little Venice and walked our way around part of the island to a castaway beach.  I think our half-day of exploration to the castaway beach was my favorite experience.  As we made the 3-mile walk we stopped to take pictures with all the gorgeous Greek doors and were speechless when we arrived at the beach.  Again, it was like being in a movie.  The water changed colors from a vibrant turquoise into teal into navy blue and was situated between two rocky hills.  It looked photoshopped it was so beautiful. The water was freezing, but that didn’t stop us from swimming!

Alright, so getting to the food stuff; where did we eat?

Lunch at Ithanki

Ithaki: Located in Ornos Bay right on the beach, the restaurant offers authentic Greek foods with a gorgeous view of the water. It’s a bit more on the touristy side as it’s literally a beach restaurant, but the food was pretty good.  I ate a greek salad and chicken svoulaki (without the pita bread).  Petros, our fun waiter, said the chicken was only brushed with olive oil, lemon juice and oregano, so no hidden gluten. The most memorable part of this lunch was our conversation with Petros. He was a man probably in his early 40s who had such a passion for life.  We somehow got into a deep conversation and it made me realize, once again, that we are so lucky to live in such a great country. 

Gluten Free Sea Bass at the Kivotos Hotel

Kivotos Hotel:  This was our hotel during out 2 night stay in Mykonos and let me just say, it was beyond what any of us had expected.  We ate at the hotel restaurant one night and I opted for the fresh Sea Bass.  To be honest, the Sea Bass was pretty underwhelming, but their menu did include a variety of rissotos, filling salads and fish dishes, so there was plenty to chose from. The restaurant was very chic and had brilliant views of the Bay, but overall the food was pretty bland and overpriced.  I’d recommend coming to the restaurant for a drink as the sun sets but finding dinner elsewhere unless staying at the hotel.

L'ile Bistro & Cafe in Little Venice, Mykonos

L’ile Bistro & Café- Located in the heart of Little Venice, this quaint little café offered traditional French café items with a twist.  The owner talked to us for a bit, and as it turned out, he had many friends with Celiac and was able to help me find something on the menu. My friends ate sandwiches and quiche and I ordered a cold cut tray and potato salad.  The cold cut tray was divine; it included local meats and cheeses, olives and pickles. I just wish I had brought some gluten free crackers.  Keep in mind that this is a bread-based café, so I’d recommend it for a light meal or resting place during a day of shopping.

The cold cut tray at L'ile Bistro & Cafe

Gluten Free in Amsterdam's Schiphol Airport (AMS)

The first layover of our Greece trip was in Amsterdam and I was surprised at how fun this airport was!  There was a section of the airport on the second floor that made you feel as if you were in a forest.  They had nature noises piped into the area, large bean bags for quick naps, trees growing throughout the space, an outdoor garden deck and cool innovations like a bike charging station. After a quick power nap, I wandered around for a few minutes looking for something to eat.  While I didn’t explore past the D Concourse, I’ve gathered a list of potential gluten-free spots:

The outdoor deck in Schiphol's D Concourse

Harvest Market  - On the second floor of the D concourse, you’ll find a quick, cafeteria-style food court.  The Harvest Market offers an assortment of local foods such as Dutch cheese, local fruits and vegetables, salads, potatoes and a few other gluten-free options.  There’s also a juice bar in the middle that serves delicious smoothies and fruit concoctions. As always, make sure to ask about marinades and seasonings.

While I never ventured out of concourse D, here are a few options I found on the airport website that may be able to accommodate gluten allergies:

Brasserie- The airport’s website states that they provide ‘gourmet’ meals, so you may be able to find grilled chicken, salads and steaks. 

Bubbles Seafood & Wine Bar- Who doesn’t love a glass of champagne while on vacation?  This restaurant looks like it may be a safe bet for Celiacs as it offers a variety of fresh fish.

Park Café- looks to be very similar to the Harvest Market and offers salads, fresh juices and more.

For a full list of restaurants within the Schiphol Airport click here (www.schiphol.nl/travellers/foodrelax/afterpassportcontrol/fooddrinks.html).

Preparing to Travel out of the Country with Celiac Disease

In May a few friends and I decided to take a spontaneous vacation.  At first we toyed with the idea of going to Mexico and taking a beach vacation but realized if we were willing to take a week off work we may as well go somewhere amazing.  After only 3 days of discussion we booked a trip to...GREECE!  Pretty crazy, we know.

            This was my first out-of-country trip since being diagnosed with Celiac Disease in 2008 and let me be honest, it wasn’t easy.  While you’d be hard pressed to find anyone in Greece who doesn’t at least know basic English, I found myself suffering from accidental “glutening” on more than one occasion (but that’s another blog post).

            If you plan to go out of the country anytime soon I have a few suggestions on how to make the trip a bit easier.  First off, the dining cards made from Triumph Dining was an absolute life saver!   The pack gives you a card for each type of food, explains your allergy in English and the local language, gives examples of local dishes that may contain gluten and local ingredients that may be okay.  I presented these cards to every restaurant I visited and it made the eating out process a bit less stressful.  I highly recommend getting a pack (or 2) for any vacation you take.  Second of all, make sure to bring plenty of snacks.  For our 8-day trip I packed a box of Glutino gluten free poptarts, gluten free crackers and about 10 nut/breakfast bars.  Everything was gone by day 7 and I wish I had packed a tad more.  In Detroit I found a product line called GoPicnic that provides small gluten-free packaged meals.  If I had known about these pre-trip, I would have taken about 5 with me.  They come in a variety of meals and are only about $4 a pop.

KLM Gluten Free Dinner

            When packing these snacks, make sure to bring a few in your carry on bag.  As I’ll cover in my next few blogs, airports are not the most accommodating when it comes to food allergies.  The good news however, is that the airlines are! Make sure to note your food allergy when booking your flight because all major airlines offer gluten-free meals.  On my KLM flight going to Amsterdam I was served a salad, fruit cup, gluten free bread roll and an entrée of grilled chicken with rice and steamed broccoli for dinner.  Breakfast was yogurt, fruit, a gluten free lemon tart and a veggie sandwich (a bit odd for breakfast, but it was food!)  The airline almost always serves special meals first, so I felt more confident there was no room for confusion.

            Now let’s talk about accommodations while over seas. When preparing to go out of the country, it may be worth it to try to rent an apartment instead of getting a hotel room.  This option may end up being cheaper and the best part is that you’d have access to a kitchen.  If you do choose to opt for a hotel, call ahead and to see if your room comes with a mini-fridge or kitchenette and if their restaurant can accommodate gluten free diets.  To my surprise, our hotel in Santorini actually included a stovetop! I wish I had called ahead because I would have loved to make some gluten free pasta.

            Finally, while we hate to think about it, let’s face it:  traveling out of the country can be difficult with Celiac Disease and you may end up accidentally eating gluten.  Nobody wants that, but hey it happens.  Prepare ahead of time by packing back-up medicines like Pepto, probiotics and Licorice tablets.  There’s also a great natural supplement called GlutenEase that I bring with me every time I eat out, even in the United States.  The supplement is supposed to help offset symptoms if you were to accidentally ingest gluten and is 100% natural.  All of these products can be found at your local grocery store or health store.

            Happy planning! :)